Four Generation Farming Family Adapts to Changing Tastes, Preserves Environmental and Economic Benefits for County

OCEAN VIEW – “Salt was so important to the county’s economy in the 1600s and 1700s that I’m really happy to be reviving its harvesting, and in fact we’re the only ones in New Jersey who are doing this commercially,” said Derrek Thomas, co-owner along with Lucas Manteca, his Argentine business partner, of Cape May Sea Salt.
“It’s amazing to realize we’ve only been in business since June 7 and the great response we’ve already received,” he added. Thomas’ salt, blinding snow white in color, and artisanal methods have been featured in the Philadelphia Inquirer as well as on a Philly TV news segment highlighting “At the Shore” food innovations.
Thomas continued, “It’s gratifying to see how fast positive reaction has developed and that we are really tapping into people’s passion for local, flavorful and sustainable food.”
Traditional Values Evolve
Thomas is a third generation agriculturist taking over the reins of the family farm from his father and grandfather with several of his seven children working to keep operations thriving. “My family in the early days of Windy Acres was instrumental in helping to spread the fame of Jersey tomatoes. As the economic environment changed, with influences like higher fuel prices and big box stores selling plants, they kept evolving to serve their customers. I feel I’m carrying on that tradition by making the commitment to organic produce and herbs as well as artisan production of the essential seasoning, salt. Our salt comes right from the Atlantic waters from Sea Isle City to Stone Harbor so its provenance is as local as it comes yet the texture and flavor and harvesting method are world-class,” explained Thomas.
Economic Benefits
The benefits of Thomas’ operation are intertwined with those being created by other local businesses tapping into consumers craving new tastes and the environmentally sound methods to produce them.
Their combined and expanding renown, variety of offerings and rejection of chemicals to boost output are highly positive influences on the county’s tourism, eco- friendly reputation, employment and overall economic health.  
Salt, a simple yet indispensable product of nature, has been a valued commodity for thousands of years. The ancient Romans paid their soldiers in salt, hence the word “salary” which has its root in the Roman word for “salt.”  Cultures and civilizations from time immemorial around the globe have relied on salt to preserve and flavor their cuisines.
Haute cuisine chefs are part of the drive behind the spiking trend to offer their customers healthy, flavor laden preparations and Cape May Sea Salt is an important part of serving this need at restaurants from Cape May to Philadelphia and beyond.
Time-Honored Methods
Thomas runs Windy Acres, the farm his grandfather started 40 years ago, with the inspiration of his wife, Stephanie, the “driving force behind many of the innovations we’ve adopted,” he says.
“For example, Stephanie organized our recent ‘slow food’ dinner with a long communal dining table in one of our produce barns to accommodate everyone who came. The event benefited schools encouraging their students to grow vegetables and maintain their own gardens. 
This win-win philosophy, also valued by many consumers, carries over to how Thomas produces his flake sea salt which is the old-fashioned, hand harvested and hand shaved way.
Thomas harvests the sea water with owners’ permission and then trucks it back to the farm. Deploying long handled wood rakes he wields himself, Thomas spends most of the day each day in the furnace-like temperatures of the harvesting salt house akin in appearance to a greenhouse with carefully controlled floor and air temperatures.
Thomas uses only the sun’s heat to evaporate the seawater from the salt. “Boiling is faster and easier but solar evaporation while slower and difficult to master really brings out the flavor, texture, crystals and translucency of the salt which are so prized and differentiates our product from others,” he said.  
The resulting flaky crystals form a strong negative ion bond which makes them pure and of optimal texture, epitomizing the finest fleur de sel or “flower of the salt” from the French term.
This is the “Holy Grail” of salt around the world whose cultivation epicenter for centuries is Bretagne on the western Atlantic coast of France. “In fact, we study terroir or the specific harvesting environment that produces a highly identifiable bold and pungent taste linked to geography just like the French do. I feel truly blessed I can bring that deep respect for traditional methods and superior quality to Cape May County,” concluded Thomas.  
To contact Camille Sailer, email csailer@cmcherald.com.