To the Editor:
It’s a tale as old as time: David versus Goliath. The Shop Around the Corner versus Fox Books. And now Chipotle versus TacoShop.
Yet another faceless corporate chain is threatening the security of a mom-and-pop operation that brings thoughtful food (and actual character) to Cape May Court House. The town – less than 10 square miles and already boasting a Domino’s Pizza, a McDonalds, a Wawa, a Mister Softee and a Popeye’s Louisiana Kitchen – could be the geographic poster child for municipalities on the front lines in America’s battle against ‘strip mall-ification.’
Full disclosure: I’m friends with the aforementioned mom and pop, which means that I’ve had a front-row seat to the heart, soul and savings Chef Lucas Manteca and his designer wife, Deanna Ebner, have poured into their businesses and the community writ large since 2005. When they opened the 40-seat BYO called Sea Salt in Stone Harbor, I watched Deanna scour for vintage paint-by-number artwork to hang on the walls and watched Lucas agonize over the curation of his seasonal menu. While Sea Salt is no longer there, the entrepreneurs bring that same attention to their cult-favorite Quahog’s Seafood Shack in Stone Harbor and, for the last three years, to the TacoShop in the Acme plaza – a mere 100 feet from the slated Chipotle location.
I’ve spent a good portion of the past year commiserating with these friends over the challenges of the food-and-beverage grind; my husband also owns a local restaurant – Exit Zero Filling Station in Cape May. Between skyrocketing food and labor costs, and the entitlement of too many customers, I’ve lain awake more nights than I care to admit. And I’ve asked myself, somewhat relentlessly, why anyone would subject themselves to the pain of this industry, where the failure rate is as high as the rent.
The only answer? Unmitigated passion, talent that demands an outlet and, most importantly, a resolute commitment to the community – in this case, a community where Lucas and Deanna live and work and support local. A community where their teenage daughter attends high school. A community that deserves, I believe, something real and worthy.
Call Chipotle headquarters (based 3,000 miles from the Jersey Shore), and tell them Cape May Court House doesn’t need another chain. Then treat yourself – perhaps to lunch – for being a good steward of the food culture (or what remains of it) in this underappreciated corner of the world.
I’ll be happy to recommend a good spot for tacos.
DIANE STOPYRA
Court House
